2001-07-02 - 12:13 p.m.

i'm sitting wet haired, towel wrapped around my waiste, eating cheerios. andi have to say that i had an amazing surf session this morning.

*wow*

i got so exhausted ou in the water at one point that i almost threw up, but like an addict, i had to get that last high in. as i will be in the middle of no where for the next week on a family reunion. and i can't stand not being near the water.

i caught some fascinating waves, navigated and steered well past others and gargantuan, killer rocks that people have almost died on. mmmmm. i'm not quiet as tough as i'm making myself sound, but damn it was a great feeling. topping over bigish faces climbing down the wall and gently grazing over the top never loosing my balance at it's completion.

my shoulders are filled with anguish.

i love just being a part of out there and finally i'm getting good enough to hold my own. one old fella and i got into a political discussion about how corrupt bush is. we also talked about waves around the world. my life will never be the same now that i've started this thing called surfing. it's a sport, it's a religion and it's a lifestyle.

i can't wait to try my hand at those big boys in bali.

the water in malibu yesterday felt like a war. people were fighting and getting hurt all over the place cuz the waves were big and the crowd was bigger. i'd say 200.

last night we had the bbq at ripes. i was late to my own bbq. oopps. i have vacation brain.

i have a list of things i have to do today before i leave for the middle of no where for the fam reunion. then i come back for a day and leave for the two month adventure! i can't believe that i am doing this!

i saw the scentof green papaya's. it's vietnamese set in the 50's. amazing. it captures the details of life that are so beautiful. it is an incredibly suddle film. i also watched platoon and don't really want to get into it about that, but it was very upsetting and i realize that i'm quiet the pacifist.

bi bi