2001-03-25 - 06:24 p.m.

Some of my favorite things in the world:

a pungent cheese platter and balsamic vinegar, a bear hug where I feel myself collapse into a sense of calm, noticing the details of life cold sober while becoming lost in them as if I am stoned by the simple beauty that costs absolutely nothing, 4pm- orange sunlight sifting through my window with my black cats and I wrapped up in a nap, someone else doing the dishes, backrubs, a woman fiercely fighting to love herself, other women supporting her on her adventure.

I love to surf. There are so many lessons to be learned about life out in the waves. I love being so scared by the water that I feel my legs shake, and I love paddeling out anyway. I love the silent tribe, the quiet rocking of the waves on my 9 foot long board like a craddle calming my nerves, and the indescribable feeling of actually riding a wave.